1998 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses L.V. Extra Brut Champagne

Philipponnat's Clos des Goisses vineyard is one of the most famous in all of Champagne, and having been purchased by the Philipponnat family in 1935 it immediately became its crown jewel. The name is taken from the local dialect “Gois” meaning very steep, and the vineyard is the steepest, directly south-facing site in the whole of Champagne with a gradient between 30-45%. Pinot Noir dominates the cuvee with the typical blend two-thirds Pinot and one-third Chardonnay, granting Clos des Goisses with power, structure, and exceptional longevity. Work is done almost entirely by hand, and no insecticides or synthetic herbicides are used in the vineyard.

The L.V. (Long Vieillissement / long ageing) release of Clos des Goisses is the rarest bottling to come from the vineyard in which only a few hundred bottles are ever released. Philipponnat's most recent L.V. comes from the 1998 vintage, and was disgorged 25 years after harvest in 2023 bottled with a very low 4.25 g/L dosage.

Other Reviews....
Disgorged in March 2023, the 1998 Extra Brut Clos des Goisses L.V. matured for 25 months in bottle and on lees. It reveals a brilliant, complex and intense bouquet with aromas of white pepper, smoke, orange peel, pastry, ripe fruits and flowers intertwined with a refreshing, delicate note of menthol. Medium to full-bodied, fleshy and chiseled, it’s concentrated and racy with bright acids and an endless finish. Fully mature, it should age well over the next two to three years. This is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Drink 2023-2035.
95 points
Yohan Castaing - Wine Advocate (Nov 17, 2023)

Pale golden color with notes of honey, dried pear, chopped nuts, white chocolate and truffles. Creamy and rich, with a delicious sweet and salty character alongside earthy and honey undertones. Soft bubbles. Complex and drinking beautifully after 25 years in the cellar. Disgorged in March 2023. 4.5 g/L dosage. Drink now.
97 points
James Suckling

The bright golden yellow 1998 Champagne Clos des Goisses Extra Brut is expressive and noble on opening, with notes of butterscotch, praline, white chocolate, cherry liqueur, and preserved apricot. Pure and ripe on the palate, it has an umami-like richness and is juicy with savory orange oil and grapefruit pith. It has a silky, supple mouthfeel with a refined mousse and a long finish, and it’s maturing wonderfully. Full-bodied, it’s an elegant wine but retains the characteristic power and length of this cuvée a fantastic finish. Saline and earthy, I might prefer to enjoy this over the next few years, but it will have a lot of life. Drink 2023-2033. Raised with cork not crown, it was disgorged in March 2023, with 4.5 grams per liter dosage. Approximately 100 bottles will be released. Drink 2023 - 2033.
95 points
Audrey Frick - jebdunnuck.com

A library release of around 600 bottles from Philipponnat's oenotheque range. Salty aromas on the nose with fresh almonds - you can smell age and richness but the colour is remarkable, not at all deep gold or brown more bright gold, this smells older than it looks. Lots of pear, ripe and fresh with vanilla, sandalwood, floral scents and softly spiced accents on the nose alongside a faint truffle aroma. The palate is focussed and straight with an iodine, lemon and lime tang in the middle while the edges carry the maturity with smoked meat, cepe, buttery toast, vanilla cream pastry, salt and a touch of exotic fruit. Persistent, intense, complex, rich and so intriguing - a real ride of flavour and texture. A wonderful treat to taste a historic vintage direct from the estate and to be able to compare it to the initial release if you have any. Dosage 4.25g/l. Drink 2023 - 2032.
96 points
Georgina Hindle - Decanter