1998 The Colours of Rum Bellevue 23 Year Old Edition No. 2 Cask Strength Guadeloupe Rum (700ml)

Those looking for a contrast will find pleasure in agricole-style French Caribbean rums produced on a number of islands to the north of Guyana. While they may lack the global footprint of molasses-based rum, rigorous regulations and strict adherence to high-quality production standards make it hard to find anything less than stellar examples out of Martinique and the lesser known Guadeloupe. Here's a perfect starting point: You don't need to try many Bellevues to realise they routinely pack in loads of character. Fresh, punchy and hugely flavoursome, this is a sensational example that kicks off with giddy aromas of ripe papaya, dried banana and mango plus a little caney freshness and a concentrated palate ranging through dry molasses cake, agricole funk and fruit cake. Castor sugar and dried tropical fruits come through in a long finish. These are some of our favourite Caribbeans. There must be an agricole element in the mix, but it's not stated. Matured for six years in the tropics, the remainder in Europe. 54.3% Alc./Vol. Non chill filtered. 252 bottles. Tasted from a 20ml sample.

Notes from the bottlers... Sugar cane, wood, leather.