2007 Arboleda Carmenere

The 'Global Financial Crisis' has not stopped people from enjoying wine, but it has made many people more price-sensitive. Reports from retailers, restauranteurs and industry analysts indicate that consumers are buying as much wine as they did a year ago, though they're spending much less. Naturally, the big beneficiaries are those that can offer outstanding wines at bargain prices. Chile is one of these. The last five or six vintages have been very good, with many believing that the 2007 vintage reds will surpass the exceptional 2005 and 2003 vintages in quality. As challenging as this might make things for Australian and New Zealand producers, it presents an opportunity for Chilean wines to move up the scale in price and prestige and enter the middle segment of the market, at least so long as Chile's winemakers can resist the temptation to return to the 'bargain basement'. With land and labour costs still far below those of 'premier' regions like Bordeaux or the Barossa, Chilean winemakers have known for some time that if they can focus on quality, they can over-deliver at almost any price point. The perception of Chile as a producer solely of inexpensive but pleasant, value for money wines has been difficult to shrug off. It was abruptly skewed with the release of Eduardo Chadwick's 'Sena' in 1995. Such truly great (and expensive AU$100+) offerings have now placed the country firmly in the company of the best wines in the world, despite having little track record in comparison to Europe's greatest estates. Now the vast gap between inexpensive 'quaffers' and 'icon' wines is gradually being filled, with the emergence of unique, engaging, mid-priced wines from Chile. While these wines may not be prestigious enough to woo collectors and high rollers, they will certainly appeal to bargain-hunters. Quite simply, for those desiring wines with more interest and complexity than the 'cheap and cheerfuls', you can now look to Chile for $20 wines that taste like $40. The grape variety Carmenère [pronounced car-men-YEHR] offers a style of red unlike anything else in the world. It is the sixth member of the Cabernet Sauvignon family, and one of Chile's signature red varieties. Once common in Bordeaux, particularly in the Medoc (where it was known as 'Grande Vidure'), it is now rarely found in France; firstly because most plantings were wiped out in 1867 due to the vine disease, phylloxera. Secondly, because it is the last of the red grapes to ripen, and in Bordeaux often does not fully ripen, resulting in green flavours. This combined with its erratic tendency to develop a condition called 'coulure', (poor fruit set after flowering) and its resultant low yields have contributed to the demise of Carmenère throughout Europe. Long thought to be Merlot vines, Chilean cuttings have thrived for 150 years. It was only in 1993 when the renowned viticulturist, Professor Jean-Michel Boursiquit of Ensa de Montpellier, carried out a detailed scientific survey that winegrowers realized the two similar vines had been growing together for more than a century. When Chilean winemakers witnessed the colour and taste of the pure Carmenère, they realized they had been ignoring a huge asset. Along side Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenère now represents one of the country's signature varietals. Last year we tested the waters with a trial shipment from Chadwick's Vina Sena (including Arboleda and Caliterra vineyards) based in Anconcagua. The shipment was an instant success, and introduced Australian wine lovers to what we described as Chile's New World vision of pre-phylloxera France. Tasting Notes: A superb follow up to the 2006. Opaque black crimson colour with deep crimson mauve hue. Perfumed nose of violets, spice, fresh blackberry and cherry. The palate delivers excellent weight and mouthfeel. Flavours of dark cherry, blackberry, dark chocolate and spice. Velvet tannins. Spicy back palate and aftertaste with black pepper emerging. A New World classic!
Cellar 3-4 years (2012-2013)
Alc/Vol: 14.5%

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