- 94
2015 Suenen La Grande Vigne Pinot Meunier Champagne
When Aurélien Suenen took the keys to his family domaine, it owned two hectares in the far north of the region in a village called Montigny-sur-Vesle, positioned northwest of Reims in a subzone that is sometimes called Massif de Saint-Thierry (but might equally be called Vallée de la Vesle). Early in the piece Aurélien sold off most of this land (which he felt was too far away from his base in Cramant). He realised that he could not maintain the same standard of work in vines so far away. That said, he kept hold of this tiny parcel in La Grande Vigne, which speaks volumes to his respect of these particular vines.
La Grande Vigne is a 0.21-hectare plot of ungrafted Pinot Meunier in a stunning terroir (ungrafted vines in Europe are obviously extremely rare, another feature that makes this wine so unique). The vines here are now 50 years old, planted in the deep, sandy Thanetian-era soils of the area. The terrain is flat, with a slight north-western tilt. This fascinating and complex terroir elevates this unique, unfiltered Champagne to the top of the Meunier pile.
Raised in a single 500-litre demi-muid (Stockinger) for 10 months, the 2015 spent 66 months on lees until disgorgement, with three grams per litre, in January 2021.
Other Reviews....
From some 0.20 hectares of ungrafted Pinot Meunier growing in sand, the 2015 Extra-Brut Montigny-sur-Vesle La Grande Vigne wafts from the glass with aromas of red berries, freshly baked bread, buttery pastry and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, with racy acids and a pillowy mousse, it's a charming, intensely flavored Champagne that has turned out beautifully this year. Drink 2022 - 2035.
94 points
William Kelley - Wine Advocate (Sep 2022)