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2018 Pascal Agrapart Avizoise Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut Champagne Grand Cru
Champagne Pascal Agrapart is one of the great grower producers, based at the heart of the Cote des Blancs in the grand cru village of Avize. Pascal has the reputation for being a grape grower first and Champagne producer second; a philosophy shared with his son Ambroise who is now in charge of production. Ambroise and the team works an astonishing 70-plus micro-plots in the Cote des Blancs, mostly in Avize, but also in Cramant, Oiry, Oger, Avenay-Val-d’Or, Bergeres-les-Vertus and Mardeuil. All of these parcels are ploughed, and no chemical pesticides, fertilisers or herbicides are ever used. Production is very small, with no more than 6,000 cases produced in any given year.
Avizoise is sourced from old vines of around 50 to 60 years of age, situated in the clay-rich (argilo-calcaire) Coteaux d’Avize vineyards of Les Robarts and Les Gros Yeux. The richer soils and altitude of these neighbouring sites bring more exotic fruit and roundness. The wine aged entirely in 600-litre demi-muid, and bottle fermentation took place under cork rather than crown seal. The 2018 spent just over five years on lees and was dosed at 3 g/L.
Other Reviews....
While the Minéral cuvée hails from some of the shallowest, poorest soils in Avize, Avizoise always shows some of the roundness and aromatics of the deeper soils of the Gros Yeux and Robarts parcels. It shows a little more of the heat of the year in 2018, too, with fleshy nectarine, lime and white pepper, deep and long with citrus oil yet retaining a beguiling, papery-delicate texture that all of Agrapart's wines seem to find. For a vintage when blanc de blancs can be a little simplistic, this is full of nerve and detail. Drink 2024 - 2030.
94 points
Tom Hewson - Decanter