2019 Sadie Family Swartland Kokerboom Semillon

The Sadie Family team work with roughly 30-hectares of vines, one-third of which are estate, with the other vines farmed entirely under their control. This is a considerable undertaking when you consider, at their furthest point, the vineyards lie some 250 miles apart and are spread across 53 separate parcels. Then consider that everything is dry grown and organically farmed and that each parcel, having different geologies, aspects and often grape varieties, will require different management. These vines lie mostly on the high altitude slopes of Swartland’s Atlantic-influenced mountains, one hour north of Cape Town on the Western Cape.

Following the Citrusdal Valley north towards Clanwilliam, we come to Sadie’s highest vineyard, Kokerboom. Named for the striking aloe plants that grow near the vines, Kokerboom was planted on Table Mountain sandstone in the 1930’s and is now home to one of Swartland’s few remaining plantings of old-vine Semillon—a variety that at one time, made up 80% of South Africa’s national plantings. Owned and managed by Henk Laing, Sadie notes that, “This is one of the most pristine old vineyards we know. No herbicides or artificial fertilizers have been used on it, and it has been perfectly pruned over the years. The downside is that it is small and low-yielding.”

Kokerboom is a field blend of Semillon Blanc and Semillon Gris, the latter contributing between 20-30% depending on the year. Both Semillons are picked and pressed together and raised in large-format oak. Thanks to its solar exposition, the Semillon ripens extremely well here and has little to none of the tart herbaceousness so often associated with this grape. Instead, the Semillon from this site is known for its ripe lime character with more citrus and chamomile flavours and a waxy texture.

Other Reviews....
The 2019 Kokerboom is a blend of Sémillon Blanc and Gris, whole-cluster-pressed and matured in old foudre. It has an enthralling bouquet of pine needles, vervain tea and sea spray that is utterly captivating. The palate is supremely well balanced and offers flavors grilled hazelnut and walnut, but the theme of this Kokerboom is the sea. It just tastes shockingly saline. The finish is otherworldly long and quite profound. Astonishing.
97 points
Neal Martin - Vinous

Another Sadie Family wine that lost half of its crop to the growing season in 2019, Kokerboom is part of a stunning array of whites from Eben Sadie this year. Made with co-planted Semillon Blanc and Gris from Henk Laing's farm, this is herbal, saline and refreshing, all pink grapefruit, lime and lemongrass with a herbal twist and the gentle caress of old barrels.
97 points
Tim Atkin MW - South Africa Special Report 2020