2019 Torbreck The Laird Shiraz

In Scottish terminology, ‘The Laird’ refers to the Lord of the Manor. This single vineyard Shiraz comes from an old vineyard in Marananga planted in 1958, a plot which remains the focus of envy amongst many of the region's winemakers. Previously owned and operated by the legendary Malcolm Seppelt, the vineyard was purchased by Torbreck in 2014 and is perfectly sited with the dry grown, original Barossa clone vines facing south east. The berries are typically small and concentrated and usually harvested in two separate passes.
The French oak selected for the maturation of this wine is considered to be some of the finest in the world. Referred to as Dominique Laurent's 'Magic Casks', the wood is selected from the incredibly tiny and highly prized Troncais forest. The staves are hand split in the French tradition and twice as thick as machine split staves. As a result of the extra thickness the barrels are able to sustain an extended maturation process due to the tighter porosity that comes with the extra wood. Maturation took place in the new hand crafted French oak barriques for a period of 36 months. The barrels were stored in their own temperature controlled, ancient stone shed. In short, no expense has been spared.
Magnificent colour density featuring an impenetrable inky black heart and a deep dark red black hue. Hedonistically scented, unfurling from the glass are potent aromas of blackberry, liquorice, black plum and black cherry which are followed by toasty vanillin oak, earthy mocha and spice notes. Super rich, densely textured and possessing a liqueur like concentration, the palate is greeted with an engulfing tidal wave of blackberry, liquorice, black plum and black cherry fruits. Firm and chewy yet voluptuous in its feel, prominent charry (yet high quality) vanillin oak, earth and spicy mocha elements linger through the back half. Possessing a robust tannin structure and exceptional power it finishes very long and decadent.
Drink over the next 10-15 years.
Alc. 15.5%

Other Reviews….
Sourced from a single block of 1958-planted shiraz on the border of Maranaga and Seppeltsfield; matured for 36 months in new French oak coopered by Dominique Laurent. This wine always makes my head spin, in the best way possible. It's prodigiously proportioned with superb concentration and fruit density: blackberry, black cherry, cassis cut with hints of tobacco leaf, dark chocolate, Christmas cake, vanilla bean, bay leaf, sarsaparilla, wood spice, roasting meats, panforte, cedar and mahogany and earth. All at volume. All singing from the same hymn sheet. Layers of spice with thick-shouldered powdery tannins sedimentary and melting back into the fruit. For a wine of such horsepower, it has grace and balance and there is no doubt it will age for decades. A stunner. Drink by 2050.
98 points
Dave Brookes - James Halliday's Australian Wine Companion

The 2019 The Laird is savory, earthy and dense, a true Darth Vader wine in every sense: black, firm, gently rasping, authoritative and powerful. On the nose, the wine leads with resin and kicked black dirt, pipe tobacco, charred sandalwood, blackberries and blood plum. On the palate, the wine is laden with black peppercorns and black olive brine, lashings of charcoal, black tea and every other manner of black thing (clove, arnica, salted licorice and balsamic poached strawberries). It is an eloquent product of the dry 2019 season (300 or so days without effective rain!), and ultimately, it is this that makes the wine great—its ability to express the year and the vineyard with such expressiveness is thrilling. Actually, going back to the wine now, it is opening up (it was poured straight from bottle without decanting) and becoming more fleshy, defined by Satsuma plum and mulberry and detailed aromatically. This wine will evolve gracefully over the years. 15.5% alcohol, sealed under natural cork and wax. Drink 2024-2039.
96+ points
Erin Larkin – Robert Parker The Wine Advocate

A warm, low-yielding vintage. Sourced from vineyards dating from the 1960s, prone to cooling afternoon breezes that facilitate a long hang-time and supple tannins. Violet, clove and cardamon notes. A complex potpourri of spices confers savoriness to the blue and black fruit. The oak is toasty but well placed to corral and compress the fruit rather than overwhelm it. Drinkable now, but best from 2028.
96 points
JamesSuckling.com

Potent and precise, the densely layered taffeta tannins sheathe and support brooding crème-de-mûre and dark compote fruit, yet there is a blossom fragrance and enticing savoury detail, with earthy loam, black truffle, cep powder and gunmetal, together with chocolate, nutmeg and toasty oak. Beautifully controlled, with the energy, muscle and persistence to go long distance. Hails from the Laird vineyard (previously called Gnadenfrei) in Marananga, planted in 1958. Drink 2027-2045.
98 points
Decanter