2020 Clemens Busch Marienburg Fahrlay Terrassen Riesling Grosses Gewachs

Clemens and Rita Busch are one of the pioneering organic, and now biodynamic, producers working in Germany. As the fifth generation winemaker at this estate, Clemens stopped using herbicides in 1976, then in 1984 he and wife Rita converted to organics. They were among the first in Germany to commit to organic viticulture and led the movement establishing an association of organic growers in 1986. The estate converted to biodynamics entirely in 2005, earning certifications from the EU and Respekt-Biodyn.

Based in Pünderich, almost all of the vines they work are on the slopes of the Marienburg, and unique for the Mosel, feature parcels planted on the three main colours of slate; blue, red, and grey. In the winery Clemens works with wild yeasts, and ferments mostly in very old 1000-litre barrels. Nothing is added to the wines at any stage, apart from a touch of sulphur at bottling. Most of the wines at the Busch estate are vinified dry, and they are rich, complex and often powerful. They age very beautifully, gaining in complexity and texture. However, the sweet and noble sweet wines from the estate are also impressive, ranking among the finest wines made anywhere on the Mosel.

Other Reviews....
The 2020 Marienburg GG Fahrlay Terrassen offers a clear and intense, warm and concentrated yet refined and flinty bouquet of weathered slate and iodine aromas intermingled with super ripe and juicy Riesling aromas. Refined and crystalline on the palate, with immediately salivating salinity, this is a very intense and concentrated, long and complex Riesling with iodine notes and crunchy tannins. A spectacularly good wine. 12% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted at the domaine in July 2022. Drink 2025 - 2050.
97 points
Stephan Reinhardt - Wine Advocate (Aug 2022)

Here comes the boss! The dense grapefruit, rosemary and thyme nose pulls you inexorably into the orbit of this rich and concentrated dry riesling that has enveloping,salty minerality. And, in spite of all this, it is laser-beam bright and has white-flower delicacy at the very deep finish. From 110-year-old vines. From biodynamically grown grapes with Respekt certification. Drinkable now, but best from 2023.
98 points
Stuart Pigott - JamesSuckling.com

The 2020er Fahrlay Terrassen GG, as it is referred to on the main part of the label, was fermented spontaneously in traditional oak casks from fruit harvested in a prime terraced part of the blue-slate Fahrlay sector. It proves still remarkably backward and does not offer much beyond some wet stone and smoke at first. It takes a while (think days rather than hours) for the wine to open up and reveal its stunning nose made of cassis, fine spices, herbs, flowers, and subtly creamy smoke. The wine is beautifully juicy on the dry but not bone-dry palate and leaves a superbly airy and playful feel in the long finish. Everything is there for making a stunning wine at maturity. But this beauty will test one’s patience first. Drink 2028-2040.
95 points
Jean Fisch & David Rayer - Mosel Fine Wines