2021 Cesar Marquez Perez El Val Godello

Cesar Marquez has Bierzo running through his veins, and is the latest generation of the Perez family to own the leading Castro Ventosa winery in north-western Spain. Growing up around surrounded by the region's leading exponents, including a lengthy apprenticeship with one of the world's greatest winemakers, his uncle Raul Perez, has shaped much of what Cesar values in wine. While he still manages the family estate, Cezar started his own venture in 2015, and is already one of the most exciting young prospects in Spain.

Having a deep understanding and access to some of the best vineyards Bierzo has to offer, Cezar focuses on preserving purity and freshness, highlighting the promise Mencia has in the right place when made with attention to detail. Cezar is structuring his line-up of wines in Burgundian fashion, making a broader appellation wine, a village wine, along with several single vineyard offerings. Winemaking is similar on all wines, with grapes partially destemmed and fermented in open barriques, before spending 12 months in old barrels without any racking or top ups before bottling the following winter. These are wines that are not just great examples of Bierzo Mencia, but wines that truly stand shoulder to shoulder with the finest from any region or country.

El Val is a new wine of 100% Godello from a cool, high altitude vineyard, and transcends the quality limits expected of this grape in Bierzo.

Other Reviews....
The new white 2021 El Val comes from one of the coolest places in Valtuille—the same place as a new white for the family firm Castro Ventosa—with vines regrafted to old-clone Godello. It has 12.48% alcohol, very good parameters for acidity and freshness and a consistent sensation on the palate. It's from ancient vines on clay, stone and quartzite soils and fermented in one 500-liter barrel where the wine matured with the lees that were never stirred for 11 months. It's super elegant, very clean, precise, symmetric and delineated, transparent, harmonious and elegant, like a grand cru Burgundy. Bravo! The price is high, reflecting scarcity but also quality. It transcends the appellation and the variety. Only 521 bottles were produced. It was bottled in August 2022. Drink 2023-2032.
98 points
Luis Gutiérrez - Wine Advocate (Aug 11, 2023)