- 96
- 98
2021 Comando G Las Umbrias Garnacha
It’s time to leave your preconceptions at the door, as Comando G produce Garnacha (Grenache) unlike anyone else in Spain. Comando G’s Daniel Landi and Fernando Garcia craft Garnacha up in the near inaccessible hills of the Sierra de Gredos mountains which are miles away (figuratively and literally) from the dark, powerful, brooding wines of Priorat that hit the scene 20 years or so ago. These are a different breed of Garnacha, light, ethereal, built on tension and finesse. There’s no lack of concentration however, and they have much more in common with high-end Burgundy than what you would normally associate with Spain. Word is well and truly out on these special wines, with demand far outstripping supply and prices skyrocketing on the secondary market.
Other Reviews....
The 2021 Las Umbrías is completely unusual. For a start, it's cloudy. They decided to bottle it like that, without racking, and the nose feels like a Poulsard from the Jura produced in Chambolle-Musigny, wild, lively and expressive. It has notes of red fruit, hints of tangerine and flowers. It's cold, ethereal, delicate, with almost unnoticeable tannins, and it's full of crystalline energy, quartz and iron. This is a vineyard that marks the vintages like no other. In great vintages, it has great finesse; and in warmer years, it suffers more. This is not a vintage for all consumers, as the wine is quite different from previous years, with a contained 13.5% alcohol and a vibrant and characterful palate. Magical. A total of 1,490 bottles were filled in March 2023, unfiltered and unfined, as direct as possible from the tank, where it was racked directly from the foudre. Drink 2024-2034.
98 points
Luis Gutiérrez - Wine Advocate (Dec 08, 2023)
Confidently cloudy and definitely the most cloudy Comando G vintage so far. Wild herbs, tile, white pepper and freshly cut grapefruit. Lovely peppery funk here. Intense and peppery on the palate but very airy in form. Really juicy and flavorful with a long, intense finish. Drink now.
96 points
Zekun Shuai - JamesSuckling.com