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2021 Keller Limestone Riesling Kabinett
It would be no exaggeration to say Weingut Keller consistently produce the finest dry Rieslings in the world, a fact proven year after year since Klaus-Peter Keller took over the reins from his father in 2001. Along with his wife Julia, Klaus-Peter has continued to prioritise the quality of dry wine produced at the estate, and these are now some of the most sought after and collected wines on the planet.
Other Reviews....
This cuvée consists, as usual, largely of Kirchspiel but with some contributions from Abtserde and, to a lesser extent, (Oberer) Hubacker. Apple blossom and peony waft from the glass. And “wafting” also describes this delicate and delightful Kabinett’s palate performance, which combines succulence of apple and honeydew melon backed by textural gloss and discreet sweetness with brightness and lime zest. The finish is so bright and zesty that it’s almost tongue-lashing, but in a very positive, stimulating way. A bittersweet liquid, floral perfume lingers along with the refreshing effects of infectious juiciness. The wine dares you to resist the next sip. Drink 2022-2044.
92 points
David Schildknecht - Vinous
This is the only one among the 2021 Kabinetten that is already bottled. 30-year-old vines from Kirchspiel and Abtserde (too young for the Grosse Gewächse wines). The exact origin varies by vintage. This is the Kabinett counterpart to the dry Von der Fels. RS 45 g/l.
Intense aroma of sweet herbs, fresh flowers and green fruits. Exotic fruits and even wild strawberries. According to Keller, such aromas are lost if the fruit ripens quickly. Yet this is stony/mineral too, the aroma of just-crushed stones. As it warms up, there is a hint of ginger and sweet spice. Scented on the palate as on the nose. Thanks to the crunchy acidity, the sweetness seems almost to disappear on the finish, giving an intense citrus impression. There’s an electric tension to this mouth-watering wine. It is hard to put it into words but the acidity feels dry. Perfect balance is a mark of the 2021 Kabinetten.
17/20 points
Julia Harding MW - jancisrobinson.com