2022 Pyramid Valley Earth Smoke Pinot Noir

Driven to create one of the new world’s great cool-climate vineyards, it took Mike and Claudia Weersing 15 years and a quixotic global journey that included a lengthy stopover in Burgundy before they found their perfect site. Inspired by the climate and soils of that region, the duo finally found their special place in the limestone-rich soils of Waikari in North Canterbury. From here Mike and Claudia established Pyramid Valley and emerged as NZ pioneers of both biodynamic practices and high-density viticulture. For almost 20 years they inspired and/or challenged all those who came into their orbit. Their minute scale and exceptional dedication to their soils and vines led to some incredible wines being produced. First visiting the vineyard in 2007, Steve Smith MW (then of Craggy Range) was one of many affected by what he describes as one the most compelling and unique vineyards he has ever visited. When Mike’s health went into decline, the Weersings were forced to sell and Smith and his partner Brian Sheth acquired the estate in late 2017. The spectre of Burgundy is writ large over the foundation and ethos of Pyramid Valley, yet we should not expect imitations in terms of the style of the wines. Rather they have their own very distinctive style and energy, and this is precisely as it should be with terroir-driven wines; uniqueness is the point.

Both of Pyramid Valley’s Pinot Noir vineyards are densely planted on clay/limestone slopes. Earth Smoke sits on the richer soils of the two: an expansive, east-facing slope with strong, beautifully structured soils that are comparatively high in limestone. The name here comes from the nickname given to fumitory, a plant of the poppy family that can be found thriving in this 0.85-hectare plot. Although both wines share a familial DNA, the later-picked Earth Smoke is typically the more structured and darker of the two, with more fruit weight to go with its tender, fine tannins.

Other reviews...
Having made no Earth Smoke in 2021 due to spring frosts and cool flowering ravaging the yield, it's a welcome return in 2022. Translucent, pure and delicately textured, this Pinot Noir shows a fine hand and the confidence to be hands off. The wine is calm; in the mouth, it gives the impression that a hush has descended. It is attractively scented - full of dried herbs, cherry, festive spice, violets and a hint of smoke. There's plentiful concentration without weight. The tannins are pliant, providing the finest coating for your palate. Drink : 2025 - 2033.
95 points
Rebecca Gibb MW - Vinous

A crispness, a pulse of tart cherry, a crunch of cranberry, some nougat licks and woody spice with sappy pomegranate juice, a touch of hazelnut paste with bergamot tea, sage leaf and dried rosemary amongst the mix of characters here. It’s got volume of intense, granitic minerality and a grumbling swish of pumice-like, almost Italianate texture to tannins amongst the vibrancy of fruit character.
95 points
Mike Bennie - The Wine Front

Sourced from a 0.8ha block of biodynamically farmed pinot noir on the Pyramid Valley Waikari estate. A beautiful, complex-smelling wine with brooding dark plum and cherry fruits, cut with spice, blood orange, amaro herbs, raked leaves, pressed wildflowers, twiggy nuance and crushed stone. So calm and composed on the palate with a sapid calcareous cadence, fine, chalky tannin grip and a long, gamey retreat.
96 points
Dave Brookes - Halliday's Wine Companion

Closed at first but soon opens up with an opulently perfumed nose, layered red/black fruits, florals and spice; a lot of earth and vinosity here, too. Hard to tease it all apart, both on nose and palate. Textural and compact with wonderfully integrated fruit/oak tannins and a spine of bright acidity. Clearly built for the long haul while offering a lot of joy already. Biodynamic. Drink: 2024 - 2032.
96 points
Emma Jenkins MW - Decanter