2022 Sadie Family Swartland Kokerboom Semillon

Following the Citrusdal Valley north towards Clanwilliam, we come to Sadie’s highest vineyard, Kokerboom. Named for the striking aloe plants that grow near the vines, Kokerboom was planted on Table Mountain sandstone in the 1930’s and is now home to one of Swartland’s few remaining plantings of old-vine Semillon—a variety that at one time, made up 80% of South Africa’s national plantings. Owned and managed by Henk Laing, Sadie notes that, “This is one of the most pristine old vineyards we know. No herbicides or artificial fertilizers have been used on it, and it has been perfectly pruned over the years. The downside is that it is small and low-yielding.”

Kokerboom is a field blend of Semillon Blanc and Semillon Gris, the latter contributing between 20-30% depending on the year. Both Semillons are picked and pressed together and raised in large-format oak. Thanks to its solar exposition, the Semillon ripens extremely well here and has little to none of the tart herbaceousness so often associated with this grape. Instead, the Semillon from this site is known for its ripe lime character with more citrus and chamomile flavours and a waxy texture.

Other Reviews....
Starting with a delightful mineral-laced nose, the 2022 Old Vine Series Kokerboom offers complex aromas of roasted almonds, underripe peach and wax melon with delightful citrus blossom. Light to medium-bodied and with 12.8% alcohol, the palate is complex, offering a beautiful weight with a waxy and phenolic mouthfeel before showcasing incredible mineral tension with energetic acidity. This beauty will remain food friendly for years and will benefit from another year in the bottle. Only 2,300 bottles were produced of this devastatingly gorgeous wine. Drink 2024 - 2038.
95 points
Anthony Mueller - Wine Advocate (Dec 30, 2023)

The 2022 Kokerboom is a blend of Semillon Blanc and Gris, whole bunch pressed and aged in old foudres. This is the first time it has been bottled under 14% alcohol (13.2%). It has a backward, stoic nose, opening with yellow fruit, jasmine and fern. The palate is very well balanced with a fine thread of acidity. This is based on freshness and texture, with a touch of glycerin and lanolin towards the finish, with tangy orange rind and stem ginger on the aftertaste. Maybe just missing the X-factor of Sadie's other cuvées this year? Drink 2024-2038.
91 points
Neal Martin - Vinous