- 95
2022 Wantirna Estate Lily Pinot Noir
2024 marks 61 years since the first vines were planted at Wantirna Estate, established in 1963 on an east-facing slope in Melbourne's southeastern outskirts. Once a mix of orchards, bush, and grasslands, the vineyard thrives today under the care of Maryann, Reg's daughter, though Reg remains actively involved. The wines, named after his four grandchildren, feature labels illustrated by Michael Leunig, reflecting each grandchild's personality—a heartfelt touch to this family-run estate.
The vineyard's three distinct Pinot Noir blocks, covering just ten acres, are hand-harvested separately, often with up to two weeks between harvest dates. The mature block, with vines from the early 1970s, contributes savory tones and fine tannins. The Front block adds spice, while the Fruit Tree block offers generous fruitiness. Blended together, these components create the complex Pinot Noir style Wantirna Estate is renowned for.
Other Reviews....
I most often think the Pinot Noir is the weakest link in the Wantirna wines, though this wine gives me pause. This is not your fine Upper Yarra Pinot style, but it has something about it.
This is a very interesting wine, and really quite engaging. Red fruits, orange peel, spice, red capsicum, rose oil, with some cedar oak in tow. It’s perhaps a little deeper and more concentrated than is usual, has quite some amaro character in the mix, strawberry and raspberry, poached rhubarb, a little bit earthy, not least in the tannin department, and offers a bold finish of excellent length. Charismatic and maybe even idiosyncratic, but yes, it’s very good. Drink 2025 - 2034+
95 Points
Gary Walsh - The Wine Front