- 93
2023 A. Rodda Willow Lake Vineyard Chardonnay
Adrian Rodda started making wine in 1998, where he worked at Oakridge Wines in the Yarra Valley for over a decade. In 2010, Adrian moved to Beechworth in Northeast Victoria to make Chardonnay from the Smiths Vineyard, the oldest vineyard in modern Beechworth. In 2012, he started the "Chardonnay Project," where he sources grapes from the Willow Lake Vineyard in the Yarra Valley and makes wine alongside the Smiths Vineyard Chardonnay. In 2017, a third Chardonnay was added from the Baxendale Vineyard at Whitlands in the cool upper reaches of Northeast Victoria.
A section of Willowlake Vineyard’s Parkinsons Road block, planted in 1979 at 270m elevation, features brown gradational soils over clay and a southerly aspect with a steady gradient. Hand-picked fruit was pressed into 500L French oak puncheons (35% new) for fermentation without clarification. After fermentation, the wine was sulphured to retain freshness and rested on lees for 12 months, followed by 3 months in tank before bottling.
Alc. 13.5%
Other Reviews....
I’ve just noticed that Rodda uses Willow Lake on the front label, rather than the usual Willowlake. For the purposes of database integrity, which is one of my things, I will continue with Willowlake. Anyway, no Beechworth Smiths Vineyard produced in 2023. Also, it’s a rare day when a King Valley (Whitlands) Chardonnay trumps Yarra Valley. Well, that’s what I think anyway.
White peach, grapefruit, almond friand (I love them), a little struck match and sweet spice. It’s a glossy wine, has some ginger and quinine bite, lime zest, cool but balanced acidity, and also, offers something of a nutty umami and green olive in brine character. There’s some white pepper tannin grip, and a cool spicy finish of good length. It’s maybe a little washy but it’s full of character and interest. Drink 2024 - 2032+
93+ Points
Gary Walsh - The Wine Front