Chartogne-Taillet Chemin de Reims (V18) Extra Brut Champagne

Chartogne-Taillet is the home of some of the most exciting wines in Champagne. Alexandre Chartogne is a perfectionist in his approach to viticulture and winemaking, something he picked up from his mentor Anselme Selosse. Key to his approach is the importance of expressing terroir above all else. With that in mind, Alexandre separately vinifies a myriad of plots spread across 11 hectares of vineyards in Merfy and the neighbouring villages of Chenay and Saint-Thierry. Over half the parcels are ploughed by horse, and no pesticides, herbicides or synthetic fertilizers are used. In the winery, all fermentations are wild, and malolactic fermentation is not blocked. Alexandre favours wooden barrels or demi-muids for fermentations, and low dosage levels are used which allow the grapes to speak of their place.

Chemin de Reims hails from a small plot of just over one hectare, facing south/southeast, and planted 1980, 1995 and 2011. It has Thanetian sands–very iron-rich soils with varied layers and depth before the base of sandstone underneath. The soil character is quite transmissible, particularly in the Chardonnay from this site, which takes on a unique fullness, structure and almost ferric texture. A Blanc de Blancs comprising 85% Chardonnay, and 15% Arbanne, élevage is in both casks (350 to 600 litres) and tanks. Alexandre tends towards a tighter-grained oak for this particular cuvée and this, along with further precision in the cellar, regular topping up and low dosage, allows Alexandre to preserve the purity of expression from this site. The results provide us with Chartogne-Taillet's most powerful and vinous cuvée.

Other Reviews....
The 2018 Extra-Brut Chemin de Reims, 100% Chardonnay, deftly marries varietal expression with the tremendous resonance all the wines show in 2018. Citrus peel, crushed rocks, chamomile and dried herbs are all amplified in a Blanc de Blancs that presents the more savory, earthy side of Chardonnay. Even with all its obvious textural intensity and sheer power, the 2018 remains bright and nicely lifted throughout. There is a feeling of translucence here that is beguiling. This is Montagne de Reims Chardonnay at its finest. Dosage is 4 grams per liter. Disgorged: February 2023. Drink 2025-2033.
95 points
Antonio Galloni - Vinous