Kilchoman Cognac Cask Matured 2023 Release Single Malt Scotch Whisky (700ml)

Besides Glenmorangie and a handful of others, very few Scottish distillers have flaunted with Cognac casks. This example is all the more daring given it isn't a finish, instead, it's entirely matured in 300 litre casks from Tonnellerie Bossuet. Filled with 50ppm heavily-peated new-make, the liquid was aged for a minimum of six years allowing the distillery's fruit-driven, citrusy style to balance with the brandy oak. It is difficult to imagine Kilchoman's assertive peat being tamed by any wood or secondary maturation, but that's just what this fusion seems to have achieved - as though the Cognac softens and fuzzes all the sharper maritime edges; instead there's a pleasing fruitiness and more of a smoked meat / lavender honey touch, finished by a sprinkling of white pepper. Peaty, yes, but possibly one of the least peaty distillery expressions for some time while remaining true to Kilchoman's hugely flavoursome standards. Anthony Wills notes, "There is a delicate balance to be found when working with Cognac casks; keeping the age of this release at a minimum of six years old ensures the flavours from the spirit and the cask are easily detected, neither dominates." 50% Alc./Vol. Non-chill filtered.

Other reviews... the 50ppm phenols - on par with Ardbeg - have been muted here in part by the cognac cask. But instead we are treated to the most sensational intensity on delivery... Really enjoyable and with a fascinating slant. 92.5 points - Jim Murray's Whisky Bible 2024