Rhum J.M. Fumee Volcanique Agricole Rum (700ml)
One in a new series called the Atelier Range (aka “L’Atelier des Rhums”), a trio of products designed by Master Blender Karine Lassalle “to identify three characteristics inherently present and specific to the terroir of Rhum J.M, and cleverly highlight them through cask manipulation.” All the rums in the range are quite young, being under three years old. Fumee Volcanique means "Volcanic Smoke". Essentially, it's agricole aged for 12 to 14 months in bourbon barrels that undergo an “extreme” char treatment. The producers sum it up as "intense and powerful, with notes of salted butter caramel, lime and honey enhanced with smoke." Rhum for fans of Islay single malts, perhaps? 49% Alc./Vol.
Other reviews... Extremely fruity on the nose, this has the immediate impact of a classic agricole, overwhelming with notes of overripe pineapple and charred lemon, tempered by a strong vein of cut grass and a touch of licorice. This hasn’t had enough time in barrel to become as smoky as the distillery might want, given the name, but there’s a taste of char that emerges on the palate, melding with the toasty caramel, almond, and coconut elements on the tongue. A tough of racy tajin adds some bite on the finish. The overall effect is a little haphazard, as the heavy fruit character weighs down everything else. Definitely something the tiki crowd can mix with, though. - drinkhacker.com
...Fumée volcanique, volcanic smoke, that will obviously appeal to any malt whisky lover – not to mention peatheads. Smoke, where? Hold on, as I understand it, this has nothing to do with smoke per se, it's just that the casks have been heavily charred. Which, as whisky folks know well, would not impart any form of smokiness to a spirit. But let's see… Colour: straw. Nose: young and fresh, with touches of rubber and aniseed, then indeed a wee smokiness, as if the casks had met some peaters in an earlier life. Some kind of STRised ex-Islay wood, perhaps? Ow the distillate feels very young and it's true that the heavily charred wood did not add to much vanilla here, let alone coconut. So, it's pretty dry. Mouth: first and foremost it is very spicy and vegetal. You'd almost believe this is verbena liqueur blended with green chartreuse and tar liqueur (goudron). Some lime too, but really not a lot of 'rhum agricole', in my opinion. Some kind of in-cask mixology? But don't get me wrong, I rather enjoy this, it's just very unusual. Finish: medium, with rather more mint and aniseed. What we call 'a perroquet', which is pastis with a dollop of mint syrup. Some rubber is back in the aftertaste. Comments: a rather cute alien, and perhaps a category on its own. 81 points - whiskyfun.com