Sliabh Liag Distillery An Dulaman Irish Maritime Gin (500ml)

"One of the most intriguing spirits I have come across ...at the herbaceous/savoury end of the gin spectrum, with the umami flavours of the seaweed balancing well with soft, piney juniper notes." - theginqueen.com

Seaweed as a gin botanical is becoming more common. Scotland's Isle of Harris and Australia's own Manly Spirits are two notable examples of recent times, but both employ just one variety. Now there's a gin that takes the maritime theme to another level, using five varieties of seaweed. That gin is An Dúlamán, named after an Irish folk song about two seaweed harvesters. The coast around Sliabh Liag on the West coast of Ireland holds an extraordinary bounty for such foragers, assuming they have the knowledge of where and how to harvest these natural products of the ocean.

Distillers, James and Moira Doherty find each sea plant brings something specific to their gin's profile: Channel Wrack adds firmness, Sugar Kelp gives sweetness and Dulse spikes the blend with its savoury saltiness. Pepper Dulse is the most elusive local seaweed and yields a distinctive spicy, umami note. As this amazing plant thrives at the very edge of the shoreline hidden among rocks, it can only be harvested on a full moon when the tides withdraw. Then there's Carrageen Moss that provides a delicately nutty sweetness. Each seaweed is prepared separately, and the gin is distilled using the standard London Dry method, save for the vapour infused Carrageen Moss.

Bottled at 43.2%, Sliabh Liag's Forsyth-designed still likes a low ABV in the pot, running a narrow temperature band to manage the delicate seaweeds. To top it off, the distillers take a super narrow cut of only the purest spirit. The result is a perfectly balanced coastal gin that noticeably wears its Donegal origins on its sleeve. Each bottle is wax sealed and marked with a batch number linked to the lunar phases on a dark 500ml bottle, reminiscent of the glass vessels found along the Donegal shore during the wrecking of the Spanish Armada.

Tasting An Dulaman reveals aromas of ocean air and gentle cassia spice, and a palate with bright, soft juniper to the fore, fading slowly to reveal brisk salt, chestnut and oyster hints, and a buttery, smooth, umami-rich texture. Then there's some exotic, sweet Turkish delight notes on the clean finish. As a base, it works superbly with premium tonic water, lemon tonic or bitter lemon. Classic gin cocktails are a no brainer. It also makes a mighty Martini with a good splash of vermouth.

Gold Medal - San Francisco World Spirits Competition 2021