Suntory Hakushu 12 Year Old Single Malt Japanese Whisky (700ml)

"A unique composition and a quintessential Japanese whisky experience." - whiskyadvocate.com

At the 2010 World Whisky Awards, whiskies from Japan won prizes in two of the top three categories for Scottish-styles. It was a turning point of sorts, yet those in the know weren't surprised; Japanese whiskies have been snapping up awards at international competitions for decades. The problem has been keeping up with international demand (the majority has traditionally been consumed within Japan). The situation has now changed with Suntory significantly increasing exports. A key role is played by their Hakushu distillery (pronounced "Hack-shoo"), one of the largest malt whisky distilleries not only in Japan, but in the world. Built in 1973 coinciding with Suntory's 50th anniversary, it's set amidst spectacular pine forests close to the Japanese Alps. Suntory also purchased the distillery surrounds to protect water quality and conserve the local environment. In fact, water from the district is considered the best in Japan, something Suntory have capitalised on by bottling and selling it throughout the country. Barley required for single malt production is reportedly imported from Scotland or elsewhere (including countries like France, England and Australia). Due to the height above sea level (700m), low pressure distillation occurs naturally, said to contribute to the light, fruity style. The latest renovations mean a variety of stills with different shapes, sizes, lyne arm orientations, heating methods and condenser types are geared towards diversity and quality rather than quantity. The resulting whiskies make a significant contribution to Suntory's large number of malts and blends.

The 12 year old Hakushu is considered a fine introduction to Japanese styles for those who enjoy smokey malts, though the degree of smokiness is said to vary from batch to batch. Our tasting from 2014 found a bright gold coloured whisky with restrained aromatics yielding faint suggestions of toast and honey. Several minutes adds muted scents of sponge cake without budging the intensity. The whisky tastes semi-sweet with a juicy feel and a lipsmacking, biscuity mid-palate hollowing towards the finish with some late sweetness and delicate oils entering. It's clean and crisp making for a nice aperitif; you could also describe it as youthful and vibrant, but not peaty. See Whisky Advocate's notes below for notes on a more recent bottling.

Other reviews... Fragrant and herbal aromas, with pine needles, basil, green bell pepper, pea pod, black truffle, peppercorn, and smoke from smoldering dry mosses and wood shavings. It’s very smooth and refreshing, with pear, peppermint, lemon, lime, green tea, kiwi, and herbal notes, finishing with chopped mint, more herbal layers, and gentle peppery spice. A unique composition and a quintessential Japanese whisky experience. [2023 tasting] 91 points - whiskyadvocate.com

A floral nose, slightly smoky, with some brine. Huge flavour in the mouth, toffee, fruit and peat smoke. This could almost be Caol Ila. The finish is medium, smoky, with drying notes of oak. An extremely well structured, traditional malt whisky. - www.whisky-pages.com

...Light amber/marigold color; excellent purity. Smells of sawdust and pecans in the opening sniffs, plus a bit of summer flower garden (carnation) and spice (nutmeg); there’s an acute nuttiness to the aerated bouquet that becomes more like candle wax with further exposure to air; intriguing and unique. Entry taste is cocoa-like, bittersweet and nicely textured, almost oily (a plus); midpalate stage reveals an intensely grainy core flavor that’s both astringent, slightly sweet and caramel-like. Concludes in a stately manner that’s bittersweet, honeyed and refreshing. A superb blended whisky. Highly Recommended www.spiritjournal.com